Three Sweet Rides

Today's surf was pretty short and sweet, and I got three pretty sweet rides. The water felt shockingly cold when I first got in, and after I got out I couldn't use fine motor skills, but in between it was okay. The waves were big and exciting for Bolinas, and I think I knowingly "dropped in" for the first time. Got on the wave a little far back, sortof shuffled to the front of the board, and was able to drop down onto the wave, without nose-diving. I think that's just a normal thing to do, but it's exciting for me!

It was really nice to get in the water today, since I missed going last week. Pelicans flew over my head, seawater went all through my sinuses, I was in the ocean! I thought I'd go deaf when a wave hit my ear. I love it though.


Note on 3/15/09: It has come to my attention that "dropping in" is not the term for what I was talking about, but rather a negative term for when one joins onto a wave that somebody else is riding, getting potentially in their way, and being a generally rude thing which I try not to do (but have been numerously guilty of as I am a beginner and I didn't know). All I meant was when you catch a wave but you're sort of behind the top of it, and in order to ride it you go over the top, and down the front, like snowboarding down a little hill. Then you're on the wave being pushed forward by it, whereas otherwise you would have just slid down the back and lost it. I was excited because this happened, meaning I wasn't just flailing through a few seconds in time and then later realizing what happened, instead I was somewhat in control. Nice!
But I haven't been surfing in a couple months now, man I miss it!
Anyway, it's possible that "drop-in" means both things, but I think "don't drop in on me" means the other thing, because there is graffiti at the beach saying that, which someone's name in particular to whom it is addressed. Politics!